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JULIE LE MINOR
WHAT ABOUT CRAFT - ZOMER
6min of reading

From The Craft Issue

Happiness therapy according to Zomer: the fashion label founded by designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha.

“For us, luxury means quality: garments that stand the test of time,” says Danial Aitouganov, speaking about Zomer, the label he co-founded with stylist Imruh Asha. Danial trained at the studios of Chloé, Burberry, and later Louis Vuitton Homme; Imruh is the emblematic fashion director of Dazed Magazine. In less than two years, the Paris-based label has carved out a unique place on the international scene, driven by the talent and unconventional approach of these two fashion cool kids. A finalist for the 2025 LVMH Prize, Zomer continues to assert its identity season after season: a brand that is playful and witty, yet always refined.

A word first about the name “Zomer”, which means “summer” in Dutch.

DANIAL AITOUGANOV When we created the brand with Imruh, we asked ourselves: what do we want to bring with it? And the answer is joy, warmth, and brightness. Summer is that for us. It perfectly embodies what we want to bring.

Zomer is known for the refinement and high quality of its design. What does the theme of “craft” evoke for you?
D. A. We have a unique craft, with our own practice. It gives depth, a human touch, and an extra layer to the work. Last season, we worked with Cécile Feilchenfeldt, who did the knitwear pieces. That's real craft, a skill you have to learn and practice.

As a designer, what is your relationship to time?
D. A. I'm so upset with the fashion cycle. The first season, we had time — time to think, to discuss, to change. And now, we don't have time anymore. I'm just so frustrated by it. Because I need time to reflect, digest, and adapt.

Zomer collections are quite unconventional, a bit rebellious. How do you manage to create something different in fashion today?
D. A. That's a question Imruh and I always ask ourselves. Because we feel like everything is almost done. But you can definitely dress it differently, try to refresh the idea. So we're always questioning ourselves: “How is it new? Is it part of the Zeitgeist?” It's a lot of conversations and dialogue. It’s a creative process that never stops.

How did you both meet?
D. A. I was a student at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. Imruh was working at this very famous concept store in the city. It was the place to be for fashion people. We became friends and bonded over our love for imagery and clothing. I was looking for a stylist to collaborate with on my graduation project, so I asked him. The rest is history.

For Fall/Winter 2025, the show started from the end and some garments were worn back to front. An upside-down collection. Was that a statement?
D. A. It started from a need. I wanted to go back in time for some personal reasons. Imruh’s answer was: “Why don't we create a collection that goes backwards?” We started to explore the idea, and in the end, we based the whole season on it — starting with the finale. It was just a fun season for us, we allowed ourselves to play. And if people leave the show with a smile, then I feel like we’ve fulfilled our mission. Fashion can be an escape from reality. It can make you dream. It’s an antidote.

"FOR US, LUXURY MEANS QUALITY: GARMENTS THAT STAND THE TEST OF TIME."

How do you approach design? How do you reconcile a conceptual mindset with the realities of the market?
D. A. As a young brand, you need to show your voice and a different perspective on fashion. But at the same time, you need to sell. So desirability and wearability are very important. Success is a balance; a good mix between the conceptual and the commercial. When I see someone on the street wearing Zomer, it makes my heart beat faster.

Speaking of concepts, what about the No Budget Bag — a simple leather bag handle — from your FW 2025 collection?
D. A. I went shopping with my interns, and one of them came across this bag handle. The idea was sort of born. A bag without a bag. We knew it would have a moment. And we were right: it was everywhere. But the funny thing is, we also sold it.

You're a finalist for the LVMH Prize 2025. What does this kind of award mean for an emerging brand like yours?
D. A. It’s great to be recognized by the industry, especially since we’ve only existed for two years. Having this kind of acknowledgment is encouraging. At least within the fashion bubble, people know who we are.

What would be your ideal summer?
IMRUH ASHA Every day out in nature.
D. A. My ideal summer would be not to think about fashion.

Journalist
JULIE LE MINOR
Photographer
OLIVIER HADLEE PEARCH
Journalist
JULIE LE MINOR
Photographer
OLIVIER HADLEE PEARCH

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